Maison Martin Margiela x H&M Pattern Cut Flat Jacket
In 2012, Maison Martin Margiela collaborated with H&M to produce what would be one of the most important fusions between high and consumer fashion. The collection consisted of 100 re-editions of the most coveted pieces from the Margiela archive, including many of his rarest artisanal designs at a more accessible price point.
This particular jacket is a re-edition from Margiela’s SS1998 ‘Flat’ collection. The show is one of his most memorable for several reasons. For one, it was a joint presentation with Comme des Garçons, with the intention that, according to Rei Kawakubo, their similar values would “be more strongly felt due to the impact of the simultaneous expression”.
As the title suggests, Margiela’s two-dimensional garments would lie completely flat when not worn on a three-dimensional body. This effect was demonstrated by men in white lab coats who austerically presented the items on hooks and hangers as if at an auction, while a video showing the garments on models played in the background. Margiela’s SS98 show was not only a typical deconstruction of clothes, but also of the conventional runway format.
This jacket was a key piece from the presentation. It is constructed from suede leather that is somewhat coarse, and cut into several distinct panels with exposed stitching. The arms are cut in a round shape that curves into the body, and attached at the rear with a thick elastic band to help the garment keep its form. Meanwhile, the body panels are cut into different proportions, with the intention of enabling the pieces to be folded inwards and worn in multiple ways. The shoulders feature two holes to accommodate for displaying on hooks or even accessories, as seen on the runway. The fastening zip is oversized and chunky.
The original iteration of this complex garment is now part of the permanent collection at the MOMU fashion museum, Antwerp.
Fit: True to size. Slightly fitted in the body.
Shoulder Width: 38cm
Body length: 65cm
Sleeve length: 63.5cm