Jean Paul Gaultier AW98 Trompe-L'œil Denim Ensemble
Jean Paul Gautier’s AW1998 show was an apparent celebration of one of the most divisive personalities of the late 90’s - Marilyn Manson. The shock rocker was of course a close collaborator with Gaultier, who designed some of his most memorable stage costumes over several years; the two sharing a penchant for shock through their individual mediums. For AW98, Gaultier’s models adorned long black flowing wigs and goatees to emulate Manson’s instantly recognisable look. Religious iconography in the form of jewellery and priestly gowns also satirically juxtaposed Manson’s unapologetically sacrilegious image.
This ensemble featured in look 43 of the show, and its style was employed on 4 other occasions throughout.
Ever one for visual intrigue, Gaultier here creates an optical illusion by way of his trademark trompe-l'œil technique. By scanning and printing a denim prototype onto smooth fabric, the semblance of a faded denim jacket and pants is realized, encompassing everything from stitching, to hardware, the leather logo patch, and even the folded cuff of the pants. Cheekily, Gaultier has used the illusion to suggest that the wearer’s fly is permanently undone. Given the artisanal nature of the creation of these pieces, each garment is entirely unique.
The ensemble itself is constructed from a lightweight and smooth satin denim. The jacket features slightly elongated sleeves and is fastened by a silver zip at the front lapel as well as buttons at the cuffs. Meanwhile, the pants are somewhat high waisted, and consist of a zip fly with a brass button. All hardware is engraved with ‘Gaultiers Jean’s’ and a cross. Subtle orange stitching is consistent throughout both pieces, and each is embossed with a trompe-l'œil leather patch logo at the rear.
Made in Romania.
Composition: 93.5% Cotton, 6.5% Elastane
Condition: 9/10 - No noticeable flaws.
Fit: True to size women’s XS, although slight stretch can accommodate a smaller S.
Shoulder Width: 42cm
Body Length: 52cm
Sleeve Length: 58.5cm
Front Rise: 27.5cm
Leg Opening: 17.5cm